Technical W210 | Mercedes GenIn

18 Фев 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
Mercedes-Benz E 320 CDI W210

Mercedes Diesel Injector – Sprinter and others

Sprinter Injector Advice.

Having many ‘chuffing’ injectors and with the famed ‘black-death’ on sprinter engines and its close used across the complete of Mercedes Diesel vehicles, I can say that the hold down used to secure the injector in the is definitely the engines number one heel.  I am afraid that a 6mm cap head pin used on one edge of a steel injector clamp, into an aluminium head is engineering madness from a maintenance point of view.  Now out of the way – rant over — how do we deal with this and get that vehicle back on the

You will be reading this if you begun to hear the release of gas from around the engine bay of vehicle (chuffing) or you may have a black shiny coal deposit building around one or injectors (black-death) in addition to performance and increased fuel Before we carry on, it is of great to bring to your attention we are dealing with a direct fuel system with pressures around 23,000 psi or bar!  This fact is to be when working on a running when either fault or during rectification – Serious may result if you do not respect the obvious involved.  If you cannot identify the of working with very pressurised fuel systems you probably be better to entrust the to a specialist.

If the ‘chuffing’ has been early on, none or very few death’ carbon deposits be seen, just wetness ejected diesel resulting the failing combustion process up around the leaking injector out to on the cylinder head.  If carbon are present then they have to be completely cleared and away with a blunt and vacuumed away as you go.

Injector Black Death Sprinter

Because of the close of other injectors it may be difficult to exactly which one is the culprit.  If the injector is not obvious, then down the area with or other degreaser and dry off the area off of course) completely.  Using 2 strips of old brown paper cut the envelopes of your unpaid (joke) make hollow and wrap them around the fastening the ends together a paper clip. Do this for all injectors.  Start the engine and for the darkening/spotting of the brown paper diesel spray, this indicate quite clearly the problem lies.

Once the work can begin – Run the engine nice and warm then it off and remove the keys.  Remove the supply hose to the inlet and split the composite intake by removing the pins that it to the lower section.  Remove the two that are also fastened to brackets at the rear and front of the by the fuel filter.  Lift off the and stuff the remaining open with paper/cloth to prevent dropping inside.  Check the at the back plate/cover of the upper of the inlet manifold as this is to squeezing out causing turbo leak and is this a good to take a look/plan to rectify.

completely the steel fuel pipe from between the injector and the fuel rail with its injector electrical tie this cable out of the way of the work Remove the long single 6mm bolt that secures the clamp and place it safely to one with the clamp itself.  the threaded portion of the 6mm bolt if it is or showing heavy signs of material deposited on the threads further action may be needed on to rectify the threads in this all important tapped hole.

The next part of the procedure is or break’ for the DIY repair and is the point of no so please take heed.  Try to the unclamped injector, if it moves by hand then great, if it budge try a little more – but not too much.  If it’s seized at this point re-assemble the and take it to a diesel specialist as to the injector or head can be very indeed and botched repairs exceed the cost of it being by a professional in the first place – you been advised.  If the injector begin to pull it upwards twisting the body, if it jams, it the other way and work it using penetrant or WD40 in the area where it enters the head.  In cases the injector lifts out in others it can take hours of and fiddling, don’t be tempted to use or heavy tools to do this job as expensive damage results.  The below shows damage to a cover caused by levering it to extract a stubborn injector.


Sprinter Rocker Cover

the injector is out, clean it off and it safely out of the way then recover the copper washer from the in the head that forms a gas seal for the injector against the cylinder head.  Use a to inspect the injector seat in the head, it will likely be and carbonised, this needs to be off and in severe cases re-cut to a perfect sealing surface.  I in the past had great success a wooden dowel, rather the ones used on a valve hand tool.  Using adhesive stick a square of abrasive paper to the end of a flush cut allow the glue to dry then round with scissors.  Pop tool down the hole and the seat as if you were grinding in a Inspect it regularly and if there are deeper grooves remaining going with new paper clean and flat.  Now the top tip, it be necessary to purchase a new copper washer.  The best thing to do is purchase a Honda part in to the genuine Mercedes Benz This washer is the standard CDI seal used on all modern 2.2 litre diesel engines.   I have had great success the Honda part as they to be made from a superior and appear more compressible making a better seal any slight face imperfections.

Sprinter Injector Seal

If 6mm torx clamp bolt away cleanly and without discard the old one and purchase a new item Mercedes.  This part is a type bolt and once must be replaced.  The bolt has to be spotless and clean and have no or metal swarf at its base.  Any in the hole will be compressed at the of the drilling when the bolt is and can cause cracking or worse – through into the water of the cylinder head (really done) so clean that with an air-line or blow gun you are sure it’s clear.

Diesel Injector

Replace the with its new copper sealing using a slight smearing of temperature ceramic grease on the sides and position it correctly regard the electrical connector, the clamp and clamp bolt, fit the new bolt and torque it down to 7Nm 90 degrees turn to finish – NO If you had a problem with the thread you can use type of kit  or as a more measure carefully tap out the hole to 8mm a long series drill and if you do this you will also to drill out the clamp bracket to the new diameter bolt.  When take care to not descend in the head than you need to and into the water jacket. you may find that the previous has broken into the water – add a small amount of silicon compound to the last section of of the pin and tighten down in the normal This is not the best way to get out of trouble, but at least enable you to complete the If you don’t do this and a bolt is broken through – you will water!!

Now your injector is back in the cylinder head and clamped reconnect the steel fuel hose and electrical connector and up the inlet manifold and turbo Start and test the engine. engine should fire a couple of cranks as no fuel is necessary.  All should now be well the repair and you have carried out a maintenance repair saving you quite a lump of cash.

luck.

Mercedes front bearing noise – or is it? – Tyre

Here is a little gem of information as Mercedes Benz owners you may or may not be of regarding a common occurrence has presented itself many in my personal experience maintaining and MB vehicles.

Mercedes-Benz E 320 CDI W210

Correct tyre tread choice will often your vehicle rolling and in some cases – A switch to the type will often mechanical worn out bearing

If you are like me and are ‘in tune’ with the your car produces in the normal of driving, you may be aware that choice is fundamental to the quiet of a vehicle.  None more so in the Mercedes Benz range.

I test drove a 75ooo young, C200 2004 in excellent condition and I would been convinced that the from the front off side was a wheel bearing in the latter of its life.  As usual it turned out to be a choice of tyre on that of the car.  So many times new owners of used Mercedes described an annoying ‘drone’ and are it is a worn out rotational component as a wheel bearing, when it turns out to be nothing more a poor choice of tyre to the car by someone who does not know any (or the used car dealer fitted any pattern’ of tyre to the vehicle to its tread depth attractive to the be purchaser).

The truth is that MB quiet running vehicles and are often heard that normally be drowned out by road and noise in lesser vehicles – why new owners regularly pick up on the odd that play above the quiet inside their compartment.

The outline details are from my own findings and experiences, I am promoting or slating any manufacturer of nor am I suggesting that every of certain types and tread all produce the same noise they may not – however, quietly ask a informed reputable tyre and the chances are that he will to you the exact same recommendations.

The worst offending tyre to ‘wheel bearing type on the front of a Mercedes is the aggressive ‘V’ pattern that is often on modern tyres.  As a rule the the tyre – the worse the noise! tread pattern looks similar to this:

V Tread

The next high ‘noise’ is the Winter or All Weather tyre, its much smaller tread moulded into larger tread blocks placed in a ‘V’ pattern, rather like the one below:

Winter All Season – Block Pattern

Both of the patterns above will often than not give rolling road noise and in cases a very pronounced noise on all road surfaces, often gets progressively in frequency as you brake to a halt or to a stop line.  A far quieter, choice of tyre would be with a more ‘radial tread pattern that the complete circumference of the tyre as to the noisy ‘V’ or ‘Block’ sections See below for good choice patterns.

Maxxis Economy Pirelli Premium Tyre

Mercedes-Benz E 320 CDI W210

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