Changing CV Boots for your W123 MercedesBenz

25 Мар 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
Mercedes-Benz W123

Changing CV Boots for your Mercedes-Benz.

The following VFAQ was during the boot swap on my 300D. I hope you find it and as always remember the lovely disclaimer that I do not accept any for yours or anyone’s actions who may any of my guides.


It is good practice to use of safety jacks when under a car, they saved my life before.

look over this pdf the factory disk before any further, it should help you terminalogy. One may ask if this pdf is dedicated to the boot, why bother to make a too? Did that pdf make to you? It didn’t to me, if it did go ahead and this window right now and of luck on your rebuild, read on. Maybe it was because in step they were some fancy special well the most advanced you will need here is a or higher press. Most can probably help you out if you don’t one and don’t plan on buying I actually bought one because of well my previous axle (for my 84), it was less $100 from a local shop. Maybe before you to seriously about doing you should look to see how many of the tools you have.

Well one is probably the most complicated DIY created so far, it really very hard but takes a noticeable amount of time and tools to do it successfully. Mercedes intended the outer CV joint to be as that was the only one they the tools for, however it doesn’t matter the way we are doing it. Yet I found that the outside is easier to reassemble, whether or not. However by disassembling the joint you will surely it clean from anything may of got in there while the boot was To be quite frank about this replacement only to people who have decided to it before the boot has torn or who discovered their boot has in the last thousand miles or (If there is ANY torsional play in the go ahead and order yourself rebuilt axles, don’t your time taking apart.) Mercedes used oil to the joints, and when the boot obviously the oil all drains out. So far all of my I’ve rebuilt have at least moist when I them, one was still dripping of oil it was so I stopped driving my car as soon as I this, if you continue to drive proper lubrication you wear the down, creating slop, ruining the joint.

Without further delay let us obviously the first real will be uninstalling the axles the car. If you have torn your of course doing steps anyway. Being is in every manual I don’t go in depth here, but I still a few words to share and some for thought. Suspend car, rear tires, remove drain plugs (14mm), oil, loosen axle on each side, support remove all 4 frame to cover remove all of the cover to diff (you will have to it to get to the top ones), remove cover, diff to max height (Notice jack is at to the diff, does one have an advantage? Do that first then! I rebuilt axle then installed it, floor jack, and then the other axle for rebuild.) Try best to not pry on the joint to get it out, if you it to hard you can mess up the internals of it it). The outer must be before the inner, as soon as the is free you should have the in your hands ready to

Decide which side you to tear apart, MB wants you to the outer, and just put a new boot on the I have done both but it easier to reassemble the outer the inner. Regardless let’s you choose the outer, odds are outer boot hasn’t so take a screwdriver and pry the clamp then off. Slide the down, you have a boot of oil so be careful not to spill. Drain the oil your favorite recycling After the joint and the boot are all of oil, push the boot up just to keep it clean. The step is to look at the lip, the middle, maybe a little the middle. Carefully touch the grinder with a cutting down there. ***BE CAREFUL HOW DEEP YOU GO*** The you are cutting through is like sheet metal so don’t a whole lot, also you get through the metal you will hit a ring. Ideally you WILL NOT go this rubber ring. If you do go and you are in a bad spot you will ruin the Take your time. The time I went around a screwdriver and pried the weakened open, on my third and fourth I had it down pat cutting perfect but like previously stated, THE DEPTH. Ok so we have finally our way through the boot, go ahead and the ‘cup’ up and off. You will now see the 6 the spyder and all of the tracks they lay in. As you can we have to take this assembly apart, without adieu.

Ok we are doing great now, is where cleanliness starts to pay You want a nice clean preferably with some laid down so when the come loose they bounce away, or get damaged AT Turn the joint a little bit and at the same time, all of the balls fell out. Make they stay clean, and you lose any. Look at the now, is there a groove where the ball has unevenly away? If yes how bad is it? A little we can gladly with, a lot and well sorry but you wasted your time. You to long on a unlubricated joint!! To be honest, even my factory joint which was always had some wear in it, maybe more than the joint the boot tore on. Anyway the step is to take a screw and it into the plastic cap at the end of the axle, keep screwing until it to come out, ie the screw out and pushes the plastic out of the hole. Be with this piece, it serve a purpose. Remove the from the plastic in the least way you can think of, the plastic can and will if you clamp down on it to hard. Ok so we are now at the spyder on an almost half shaft. As you can clearly see the spyder was on from the factory, it will to be pressed off. There much if any chance you can get it off without a setup the press as pictured

Ok the spyder is off, excellent, remove both boots, the inner joint now, or if it was we have to take some freindly brake cleaner and try to get all out. Make sure to let it dry before sealing it up. Ok you’ve a while and you know for a fact the inside of the inner joint is dry, so we can procede to start the grease in there. As stated in the pdf you read a while ago you know you should use approximately 230 grams, how Febi supplied us with two of 250 grams. Now I hate the idea of on metal, after all we just all of the oil out of the inner joint too. So mission is to get as much grease as in there as possible, preferrably on ball and its track. Go ahead and the boot (which you already sure is perfectly clean) on the cup and clamp both ends either the factory type of a clamp, or the one with a screw febi gave you. If you use the one get it as tight as you can, make to use *RED* lock tite on it as We do not want this to come I even distorted the threads a too. You can align the clamps two ways either exactly 180 opposite of each other or straight as the factory manual

Use the special clamping tool to your mercedes style or just a simple screw clamp is fine here but if you do go route, please use some red to be sure it doesn’t come off on Ok slide on the new clamp, new boot, new and new inner cup for the joint which we apart. Now we have to get the spyder on and start reassembling. I’ve if you use a socket to fit in the middle so the spyder risk damaging that you can it back on with a 2lb hammer, make sure it is all the way back on it was before. Carefully reinsert the insert into the hole and the 6 balls. The first 5 aren’t bad but sometimes that 6th ball is

Mercedes-Benz W123

Fill the joint up with as grease as you can, the boot always hold a little than we can cleanly get in there so the whole joint up then put the new top and top can on. Slide the bottom can up to the top, the will help you out here by it in place for you while you start I found it easiest to start with the vice grips, I go to the channel locks to do most of it, back to the vice grips for one turn by hand. At this it is looking pretty nice, but make it look and work go ahead and stick that lip in the and go around like this in the several times until it is flat. Voila, now you just to reinstall the half shaft and with you other one.

After both axle are rebuilt installation is pretty the reverse of disassembly, remember to use locktite wherever the factory After this I went and cleaned the cover up, put some 1 75W90 in there to help it out, I changed the fluid about 5k miles later. It out semi-dirty so the differential must be a bit now.

Supplies:

Terry

Lock Tite, Red Blue

Oil (Mobil 1 75w90)

Mercedes-Benz W123
Mercedes-Benz W123
Mercedes-Benz W123
Mercedes-Benz W123

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