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22 Мар 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
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Hoses

Most of the hoses for the system of the 300SEL appear to be or quite old.  I wanted to these hoses with that looked original, or at were the current Mercedes  Searching through the EPC to gather numbers was rather useless. were many different numbers for hoses that to be the same, and nearly all of the part turned out to be bad.  With the of the classic center, I was able to up with some length of in the necessary sizes.  For reference:

38mm: N 900271  This 38x46mm hoses is on the thermostat housing.

18mm: N 018038.  18x27mm hose for the heater connections

12mm: N 012018.  12x21mm hose for several connections, including the pump and fan coupling thermostats.

A 340 501 02 82. upper and lower radiator use this short funny with a large bulge in the

46mm+: The connection from the pump to the radiator is larger the 38mm hose I had.  I need to figure out the correct for this one.

12mm old and new

Today I managed to remove all hoses and replace most of  You begin to appreciate how complicated the M189 when you on it.  There are a lot of hoses.  There are very short pieces of hose associated with the fan thermostat which are very to get to.

I ran into a snag when I I didn’t have the right hose for the large water connection under the manifolds. I had already removed the old hose and the car now be laid up until I could get the size, I decided to take a little further.

Looking the radiator cap, I could see the was pretty crusty looking.  So I the radiator out and will have it up at a local shop.  While its I’ll have easier to change the belts and and address the oil at the front of the engine.  Still of work to do!

Getting ready for

Yeah, its been a while the last update.  There has one major issue with my Mercedes 300SEL which I have mentioned before:  I have a title.  This is a major problem for a New Jersey  But I finally found a and the car is now titled and registered in my name!

This opens the door to get the car on the by the spring.  In the last year or so, its sitting in a very nice and dry  I’ve been starting it and driving it around a bit to get it up to temperature and the car to sit on its own airbags without falling for a few weeks.  Its now suffering having old gas in the tank (but its only 1-2 gallons) and has become difficult to start.  It really to see some regular use.

what I can see up to now, the following need to be addressed before the car is

Change all cooling hoses

belts

New Exhaust system

Fix oil in the front of the engine, which to be related to the fan coupling.

Change steering hoses, and change the oil in the differential

New Tires, and an alignment

And lots and lots of cleaning, and out.

Its not an insignificant amount of and will require a lot of time and  Hopefully I can make it by spring!

Heater Levers

I’m starting on a few minor projects now that the car is closer to being road  One thing that worries me about the car is the non-functioning blower motor.  Exchanging motor is a difficult and time job and one that I’d like to avoid if

Determining if the motor is bad is a pretty process.  First, checking to sure the  filters at the air intake the chrome grill in front of the is a good idea.  If any debris it past these filters it can the motor from turning.  If checks out, next is to jumper the switch.

You can access the fan connections by removing the speaker in the of the dashboard.  The switch is of the upper left (blue) lever.  Remove the connector and for 12V when the ignition is on.  Once found it, jump the 12V to one of the other  Each of the three other are one of the fan speeds.  If the fan runs, you’re in shape!  If not…  check wiring carefully, but you might be in for a fan

I’ve found several W108 and W109 cars had functioning heater blowers, but switches.  I’m not so sure is as common on later cars the redesigned heater levers.

So, the switch was my problem, I decided to the lever assembly and rebuild it. to some mice who made a in the dashboard, they were in rough shape.

I have the first part of removal of the in this old article.  Follow up to 6 to gain access to the heater  In short, you must remove the ashtray, and cigar lighter.  At point, you must disconnect all the from above and below. is a bit difficult, but possible.  Be patient and track of all the small clips!

the cables are off, you can remove the assembly by removing the two nuts hold the chrome dashboard in place.

Below are a few pictures of the lever assembly removed my 300SEL and the first steps of  Remove the black caps each of the large plastic to remove the levers.

Additional must be taken for the blue since it is part of the switch

The three pictures above some areas you should caution.  The blue must be removed together the switch assembly.  Two at the top of the switch assembly hold it in  Also note the cable lug sits in each of the top levers fall out when the lever is  And finally, the last shows the spring loaded that produces the stops for fan speed.  Be careful not to loose small pieces.

After the switch parts, it was pretty why it didn’t work.  The above show the dirt and covering the contacts.

Removal of the levers is quite easy… should just pull out the shafts.  They’re connected via a linkage which I didn’t see a to take apart.

Next step is to throughly all the parts.  I used a mild and soft cloth to ensure I scratch the plastic pieces.  I some emory cloth to up the electrical contacts.

All of the pieces and ready for reassembly.

Reassembly is forward.  I used a white grease on all the moving parts.

reassembly

Assembled levers below

Front suspension

a month break, I’m back to on the W109!  I’ve got three this week and hope to some good progress.

The important work to be done is the air bags.  The driver’s bag is leaking badly and the passenger isn’t far behind.  This job is one of that goes much after you do it once or twice. order in which you remove is pretty critical to making go smoothly.  This is well in the factory service manual, but I need to figure things out first!

So, heres how it goes:

the tie rod from the steering knuckle.  A proper (thanks Daniel) makes it to not destroy the boot on the joint.  I see how you can get the air chamber out of the car unless you get the tie rod out of the way.

the air line.

With a piece of (I used a short 2×4), the bag up and away from the piston to the lower control arm.  Do before the removing anything

Once with piston is from the bag, disconnect the 5 holding the piston to the control  There are 5, not 4 as I initially thought!

Mb gl500 increase idle speed

You should be to pull the piston out now. might want to disconnect the bar to keep it from holding up the arm to give you more clearance. it helps to have both of the car jacked up with the wheels

Now, remove the three at the top of the subframe and the assembly will out.  Remove it from the

Thats it!

Actually, thats not it. you need to remove the bag.

To I use a wire brush and some oil to clean up the tops of the screws and the  The locking tabs (A 112 327 01 to be bent down to expose the nut  Do this carefully, and you can reuse  I ended up replacing 10 of them, this is what the dealer get me when I originally ordered up the  There are 24 total on the car.  To the nuts, start with a quality thin 13mm and get the nut to turn.  Once it moves, use a #3 philips screw driver to the screw while holding the  I didn’t find it necessary to the chamber in any special way when this… I just put some down on the floor to avoid the paint.

After all the hardware is pull off the bag.  It might to blow some compressed air the chamber if its really stuck. pry anything between the ring and the this is part of the sealing

The hardware just after is see here.  I cleaned everything up to get all the and grime off.  I also cleaned the air chamber, ring, and the surfaces of both.

As you can see, the old were pretty beat up. one is from the passenger side wasn’t leaking!  Its interesting to see the bag rests in a position it be in with the suspension completely as it sat for many years.

Installation is of removal.  Getting the new bag on the ring is a bit of a but some soapy water  I tightened each screw and nut to minimize the amount of distortion on the before it was fully seated.

I an air valve (A 112 320 06 58) and filled the to check for leaks.

Here is the filled with about  I submerged it in water to check for then reinstalled it in the car with new at the air line.

While the air chamber was out of the I cleaned up the front suspension. of old grease was caked up and covering of the components.  I started with a screw driver to pull the larger pieces, then a wire brush with WD-40.  Heres a picture the cleaning:

I can do more here, but the goal was to clean things up to make greasing easier, and to the guys when its time to get  I greased everything with chassis grease when I was

And finally, before reinstalling the air I replaced the bump-stops on the lower arms.  Since the car was sitting on for 20+ years, they took a  These are part number 333 02 65.  Removal wasn’t so bad.  A pry bar a 2×4 sitting on the control arm removed with only a little


While I didn’t get the finish the job today, I did get quite a bit accomplished in 6  I still need to clear up the side suspension and reinstall the air chamber  I’ll post pictures of the state to show how dirty it is

More fine tuning

been thinking a lot about the engine, and specifically, why it suddenly to run pretty poorly as of this Wednesday.  I had let the injection pump with acetone again for a which didn’t seem to do  The engine was difficult to then would stall it warmed up.  The idle was low and of the idle speed didn’t do

Out of concern for the problems it can cause, I took apart the cold valve.  Taking it apart was easy… just two screws the solenoid to it, and three bolts it from the manifold.  I confirmed it wasn’t leaking fuel and the inside moved freely. I confirmed that its a very idea to replace its seals. were in very bad shape. small seal (A 001 997 75 40) is expensive for a little o-ring, price is $22.50.  The seal (A 002 997 52 45) is a value at $3.  This is well worth the of mind.

Next started toward the thermostat on the injection used for warm-up.  It was clear it didn’t work correctly some air was being pulled the little filter after the was warmed up.  I installed a new thermostat (A 001 203 95 75) with adding shims it and it didn’t make any real in how the engine ran.

After thinking about it, the was quite obvious:  ignition  When I removed the distributor to with the injection pump I only eyeballed its position.  It out that it was WAY off.  I set it correctly and the in the way the engine ran was quite remarkable.

I up adding about 0.5mm of under the injection pump and it seems to work well  When running at operating no air is pulled into the warm-up  The idle speed screw works correctly and the idles smoothly at 800rpm  Throttle response is also better.

To celebrate, I took the car on trip around the parking

As you can see, the car runs very now.  There is no hesitation and it to have very nice

After this drive, I the oil.  It had already started to dark and I was worried it might be with gas.  I also that one of the front air bags leaking, moving this job way up on the the of things to do.

Radiator Cap

One of the difficult when working on old cars is the right parts.  Even they’re available, its not immediately obvious is correct.  Since I’ve had the running, I’ve noticed water leaking out of the radiator’s  Although the cap looked good, I to order up a new one and see what came. new part wasn’t what I was but makes perfect sense. pictures show what was on the on the left, and the new part (A 000 501 19 15) on the

Mercedes w108
Mercedes w108

interesting records



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