The Slotcar Outhouse • View topic MRRCMercedes W154 body…

4 мая 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
Mercedes-Benz W154

MRRCMercedes W154 body

MRRCMercedes W154 body


Mercedes W154

By Phil

World motor sport has its in the global endurance races nearly all continents offering a Prix’ to the victors. For many the main competitors were and small companies. From the early days Mercedes ‘customer’ engines and chassis for with the money and they took part themselves. was before the days of dedicated racing circuits. Street and country racing was the norm and races such as the Paris-Peking and the Bennet races epitomised Circuit racing was to follow on mammoth circuits as the Nurburgring marque and driver alike, and the Florio introduced the concept of a lap race. Again, the privateer was the of these events with making up an important part of the

Two manufacturers that were at the of post WW1 motor sport the Benz Company of Mannheim and the Company of Stuttgart. These went head to head in the war years on the street on the ocean and in the It was their developments and spin from the aero industry was to transform their prowess on the With the invention and development of the both companies were to cars that would be in competition. It is interesting to note in 1924 Daimler and Benz a period of co-operation in their activities and two years later amalgamated to form the now legendary Benz marque. It is also to note that it was also this time that one Neubauer was racing Daimler and it was also about this that an engineer called Porsche took up the offer Paul Daimler to work on his Prix cars, and the rest, as say, is history.

Porsche on to design the first Mercedes-Benz Prix engines and Neubauer up as the legendary boss of the ‘Silberfeile’ Arrows#41; racing team. A name, Caracciola, was to stamp the hall mark on almost important race from on. The late thirties saw Mercedes cars achieve success in fields of motorsport with the current land speed being out of their reach. The had vanquished all before it and Daimler-Benz quite prepared to rest on laurels. As the Nazi era was approaching its in Germany, the need for markers of to the rest of the world caused the to be dragged back to international harder and faster than The Auto Union Company too was to be of the propaganda.

With new world body rules came very different approaches and restrictions on engine size and and minimum car weights the old models dropped for the new season. Auto built their successful ’D’ and Benz evolved the 154. on the 125 chassis but with the new 3 litre V12 it finally ended up with an of 480 hp at over 7,000rpm with the use of a stage supercharger. 1938 and saw Auto Union and Mercedes swap wins blow for and it was only world circumstances brought an end to their dominance.

Needless to say, much the attraction to Porsches and Ferraris, the Arrows have called to me the past for many years and it is natural that now, extra time and skills to that I should start to in their aura.

Model of this time is the MRRC as purchase from eBay. The model came as a two or four drive kit using the Kay’s motor. Unfortunately, these models now appear to be currency on the market and this rules out of my acceptable price range my lottery win come along#41;. So for twenty five dollars freight I secured one from Remembering these moulds made at a time pre CNC and CAD, we expect some discrepancies in and in scale representation. But having that, the model looks a good likeness when it to pictures on the net. The aim was to do the real justice or near abouts. And as the best approach is to have projects on the go at the same time, will minimise the risk of up’ due to impatience!

The first task is of components. I decided on a Wixwacing tube chassis as I find most forgiving when for space under a model. choice was the NC 1 motor. This was as I didn’t want this to be a rocket, more a good in non competitive circumstances. Next, as I to portray a cockpit and full driver I would need to the motor up front. And lastly, a bit different? this was to be front AND suspension, well if Ninco can do it, so can I?!

The was drawn out on a piece of three MDF. This is where the are finalised and the pieces of the chassis are cut to The pieces are then clamped to the and soldered in position. I must here that before you anything, you must clean the to be soldered. This type of with lots of soldered near each other, minimal heat to prevent joints from desoldering! I the process my clipping miniature clips either side of the in progress to act as heat sinks. is very effective.

The guide is the front cross brace and the shaft rear mount the rear. After this the two braces which take the and rear mounting screws can be in place. The front and rear will be mounted in suspension. I decided to use some thin strips as ‘leaf’ springs. The are shaped to the desired shape and the mounting tubes are soldered to the These springs should be cut to dimension but if there is some tuning of wheelbase to be made, it can be quite easily by bending the ninety degree bend at the end of the front spring.

Once all these items in place, I offered the completed into the as yet, untouched Untouched because from on in, everything that goes on the may well require the body to be accordingly. So, the front and rear are assembled and after transferring from the body, the motor is into place on the chassis. I was at having the chassis mounted with the bottom of the body than having anything out. I had then to set the front and axle height to get a good for the model. Once happy this, I needed to mount the in line with the prop hole. This required the to sit between the chassis rails. In this I had to file the inside of the rails a bit to allow the motor to sit and inline with the rear

The prop shaft consists of an SCX a Fly transmission spring #40;available two to a and a 2.5 mm shaft of some sort. The source for a prop shaft was one of the SCX 4WD motors I have in my scrap It was a simple case of stripping a and cutting off the pre determined length of Later on in testing it proved the springs weren’t tight on the shafts and after trying and the like, I finally settled on the motor shaft and prop with solder and desoldering desoldering wick. This an even coat of solder on parts which would the spring admirably.

Wheels and were to be a problem but as yet I don’t the final solution fitted. I was the model before I had the wheels and to hand. My first thoughts to buy an old 1/24th scale MG TC or similar. would give me the correct wheels and tyres could be from the O-ring box of the local store. But as the model progressed I was trouble locating a well MG. The next short term which I am still using was to fit spoked wheels and fit Airfix GP tyres to the rear and Airfix GP to the front. This looks and a lot better but is still a bit out of scale. The appeared to me whilst in Scalexworld in Whilst looking at the models in the case I saw the Ferrari 375 Fangio Now, knowing how good the supply is here, I ordered a set of and rear axles and tyres. As yet haven’t arrived but I did buy another 375 weeks later with the of using the wheels and tyres that! But as yet I haven’t brought to ripping the wheels off this model. So I still hold out of the spares arriving from

Once the chassis was looking in the body the tube which was to the guide was set, complete guide, in the pre drilled front brace. The height was adjusted the model weight was just on the front wheels. The tube was in place with a spot of and was fixed securely after the was removed. The chassis was now approaching and one of the final stages before decorating was the chassis mounting

Until now the chassis had been on some cut down original posts at the sides of the mouldings. I want to use these as they well placed so I made two new I have some different ‘telescoping’ plastic tube I cut to regular lengths and a bit longer I wanted. These tubes then coated with polystyrene cement and slid each other. They left to dry for several days and were mounted in a cordless set on slow speed. Turning the I was able to scrape the exposed end a modelling knife blade. resulted in a perfectly square on the end of the tube.

Next I sourced the I would be using on the finished and, after filing a of flats on a spare one, I it in, much like a thread using a one turn in, half a out motion until the screw was screwed home. This me an excellent thread without the post. Both posts then screwed to the completed and offered into the body. I they were too long and the operation was to cut them to length over doing it. This was by measuring and under trimming post. And once closer to the length, the posts were with the dremel until were just short of the

The body end of the posts #40;at stage, detached from the were scored to form a The previously marked post inside the body were cross hatched with the of a modellers knife. The posts re affixed to the chassis and an amount of curing super strength was mixed and applied to the post AND to the body. The chassis and posts then fitted into the and the whole was left to dry on its back. ensures the slow drying doesn’t run down the posts from the jointing area.

cured #40;forty eight or more#41; I could then the body. One of the disappointments of the body was the one moulded in driver. A bit bulky and not too as far as a 3D cockpit was concerned. I had purchased a Pitstop’ driver from but was very disappointed by the smallness of the capped driver’s head. The was fine but then I don’t a shortage of bodies, strange as it may One of the best is the Airfix head the Auto Union kit but again I had run out of so the next decision was to create hours work but worth it to me in the I sourced an old peaked helmet from an early model and to cut, grind and Dremel it a ‘skull capped’ head!!

I painstakingly cut around the driver a very sharp modeller’s Then I painstakingly cut around the wheel too. After the driver had a pair of Fly lower parts attached and glued in The rest of the driver had some of the exposed voids filled modellers putty and once it was carefully and laboriously shaped the missing part of the drivers Next was the steering wheel. the wheel was formed from the moulding and eventually the wheel had a of plastic glued behind it to the dash area. Next, the had the rest of his seat fabricated and a application of body putty only a bit more sculpting to do. finished I hand painted a of flat grey acrylic all the parts to show up the remaining Action could then be and the remaining parts repainted.

Mercedes-Benz W154

up were the exhausts. The kit comes a couple of ‘straight through’ which look a bit gangling on the side of the model. They required the mountings I had cut and covered the chassis. no matter. Extensive of downloaded internet pictures the exhausts tucking under the car the rear axle and emerging under the body work at the Some working parts of the weren’t going to allow so a compromise was reached and at least I have two exhausts pointing out space!

The next problem was the exhausts have to pass the rear axle! This was the headache and the solution was to fabricate the two from brass and solder to a couple of braces which under the body screws. way the exhaust could be taken off the chassis was removed. So, the exhausts bent to shape and a couple of made and drilled. I wanted the to look part of the model of add ons, so the front ends a ‘turn in’ end which passes a couple of holes drilled in the This looks quite and it is a simple matter to flex the out on their thin braces fitting or removing, which won’t be that often the model is finished.

With the post in site the easy bit was the and decal job. The model had had a coat of grey primer and all the like moulding dimples etc had fixed. A final light showed the model to be ready for a top So next was a coat of silver. a coat of Tamiya acrylic This is not a plain silver but has a bit of a grain to it. Probably not correct for a aluminium body but it does itself to a nice even with a degree of depth. dictates that I should really used one of the proprietary on ‘Chrome’ paints available the local auto store, as have a lovely smooth and look more convincing, but we go. So a good coat of silver was and after a period of a couple of a coat of thinned clear was Again a couple of days the decals were applied to the coat. My decals are from place and I have used to do other Mercedes and Auto models, why, because the are red with the obligatory black line around them, missing in other decals!

The fuel filler caps ‘Bare metal’ foiled and in place. Then the whole was an unthinned coat of clear. has a tendency to stay soft for days so the model was put aside for a before finishing. Last up was the or ‘matt’ detail. Obviously can’t be done before the clear coat so now when the is safe to handle, the last can be applied. The driver had his detail out and was given a set of white overalls. The wheel was painted and the head and cap also coated. One rule I use for detail is to do the fine detail Then, if you smudge or over do it, it is to cover with the overlapping So the order for the drivers head was 1. 2. eyes 3. mouth 4.skull cap 5. again to size mouth and and to define edge of skull cap and 6. goggles and strap 7. coat of on eyes to define lenses and 8. skullcap to define edges of strap.

Next task was the grill. This is also and I wasn’t going to recreate from bare metal but because it is silver too, I a way to give it a bit of depth. The resultant fix was after an observation of paint I had on another model and my solution was to a spot of flat black into some paint This was then applied to the area with the body in a position. As hoped, the pigment in the mix to the bottom of the solution and rested in the of the grille. Once dry it looked effective and a light rub with a of linen brought the colour to the high spots. Task

Next up was the track. Mmmmmmmmm? how was besprung model going to The fronts weren’t a problem as I had and tested them on my type D Union. But the rears? An unknown Well Mr Ninco could I do it! no! I had run the gears in for some while on my bed at home and everything was A1 but I still convinced that the spring was healthy. Excessive, yes but healthy, no! It that when accelerating and the gears moved too far out of mesh and quite noticeably, causing all of antics. Perseverance achieved so some fresh ideas needed. The problem was the rear were too long and had too much They could have thicker material but it was too late for They could have shorter but it was too late for that What was needed was an effective but not solution. One idea was to solder in place half way down the to shorten its effective length. may well have worked but I wasn’t happy.

As always, solutions come by this with friends and scratchbuilder. I took the model to a night to test it on a shorter speedy circuit and sure the model was better behaved on a technical circuit than tearing down some straight and braking at the far end! two or three of us we tossed the problem until it was mentioned that a ‘silicone’ shock absorber be used. Read on! Later in the a bead of silicone was carefully to the centre of the rear springs. was to act as a flexible brace and damp the action. Sure enough, days later at the ‘Red home circuit, the model was and there had been a marked in the rear end hop. Once again I extended the silicone down the spring and subsequent has shown that in all but extreme cases the model now works It accelerates smoothly and brakes from speed. I’m not sure if the level of suspension is beneficial but it work and I’m happy!

So what is it well it is an NC1 and therefore it drives fast for the model it is depicting and all NC 1’s it prefers about sixty of controller to get round the tighter Acceleration is good but I think the Airfix tyres are still a out of round. The over geared end extends its braking zone but again that’s not a bad thing All in all a very pleasant drive and one day it will get its proper wheels and an in a non magnet competition, but for now its a good between events,

and even between its stable mates!

I’m not racing slotcars,

out in the back yard, burning

Five times Wello Ninco Go Kart champion and 15 Scalex Cooper T53 Master Cup #40;Bogabilla#41; 1962 —

Mercedes-Benz W154
Mercedes-Benz W154
Mercedes-Benz W154
Mercedes-Benz W154

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